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Monthly Archives: January 2010

Product Photography 101

Before today’s blog, I wanted to let you know that if you’re on FaceBook, I just created a new fan page where I’ll be posting all the latest photos from my most recent shoots and some photography quick tips too! To follow me, PLEASE CLICK HERE!

I’ve had the very fortunate pleasure of doing a LOT of travel these last few months. In 2009 alone I have logged over 250,000 miles to all over the United States and many exotic locations such as Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Tokyo, Sydney, Perth, Brisbane, Melbourne, Auckland, London, and Dublin just to name a few. The primary reason for my travels is that I am a featured keynote speaker for Internet marketing programs all over the world. Of course, when I travel, I always take my camera gear with me, not that I have much time to shoot anything, but it’s the thought that counts.

Over the last few months I have been traveling with my good friend and eBay expert, Adam Ginsberg, helping him with his awesome 3-day eBay/Internet trainings. At his events I teach a 90 minute course on product photography and the importance of having good, quality imagery in your eBay listings. One of the most crucial elements of having powerful eBay listings is having excellent quality photographs of the items you are selling. The better the photo, the more professional your listing looks and the more professional your listing looks, the more likely it is to motivate a potential buyer into taking action and placing a bid on your auction. 

So what are some tips for taking great eBay photos? Well, it’s certainly not rocket science and you don’t need to have thousands of dollars invested in camera equipment to get outstanding results. The first thing you need is, obviously, a digital camera. Choices in cameras these days vary more than they ever have before. You can go with a Digital SLR camera (Single Lens Reflex) which allows you to take higher quality photos, have more creative control over what you shoot, use interchangeable lenses, etc., but with those categories of cameras comes a higher expense and a higher learning curve to boot. To take great product photos for eBay though, this is the ideal and yet certainly not a necessity. In fact, many low-budget point-and-shoot cameras take wonderful photos and you don’t need to have a big budget to get good results from many of these cameras. You can even get great deals on used cameras on craigslist or eBay (how about that?). 

So, when shopping for a digital camera, what are some things to look for? The current buzz word for digital cameras is “megapixel”. You’ll hear that word used a lot and while it is an important factor in buying a camera, it is way less important than many people realize. Again, it’s a buzzword used to sell cameras. Many people think more Is always better and that’s very far from true. There are many digital cameras that shoot in 10+ megapixels and their photos look like crap by comparison to some older, professional digital cameras that shoot in 3 megapixels. How many pixels your camera shoots into is not directly indicative of it’s quality. A megapixel is a term that is used to reflect 1 million pixels. A pixel is like one tiny dot on your computer monitor. To reflect a standard 3:2 format many digital cameras and computer monitors use, certain standard combinations have been established over the years. For example, you may be reading this article right now on a monitor that is set to 1024X768 pixels or even 1280X1024. One “megapixel” is determined when you add up all the pixels used so 1280 X 1024 rounds out to 1.3 megapixels.

Now, there are so many other factors that create image quality other than the number of pixels in a shot. Digital cameras use a digital image processor to interpret the shot nowadays as opposed to the film cameras of yesteryear. These sensors all respond to light and color differently so the quality of the shot is often determined with those factors, not just how many pixels are in it. It’s a combination of quality AND quantity so don’t let the high megapixels used as a marketing tool be the sole, determining factor when buying a camera for simple product photography.

So what else do you need to take great photos for eBay? Well, you definitely want a tripod. This will help stabilize your camera and get you much more consistent shots. Plus, you will probably be shooting your wares without a flash so a tripod will be a big help. “Why no flash?” you ask? The reason is your on-board flash is designed for photographing people or subjects at around 10 feet. When you use your flash to photograph an object close-up, you will get horribly bad shadows that will make your beautiful products look terrible. So instead, you want to light your area with external lights off to the side of your object and angled slightly in front and slightly behind your object. This creates a fill-light for your object and also illuminates the area behind it to cut down on shadows. You don’t have to spend a lot of money on lights either. I suggest getting two swing-arm or desk lamps from your local office supply store. Your total budget for lighting should be less than $30.00. 

As far as a backdrop is concerned, remember to remove any and all clutter from your area that you are using for product photography. Three options include using a roll of butcher paper, large flip-chart type paper, or even a flat, white sheet folded in half so it’s more opaque. The preferred color is always white as it makes virtually every product put in front of it really pop. There may be some instances where your product is mostly white so if that’s the case, perhaps having a second color like gray would be good although most of the time, it may not be necessary. To create a mini photo studio, simply push a small table next to a wall in your home you plan on using long-term for your photography. Then tack the paper or sheet up on the wall, about 2-3 feet higher than the table top, and drape it down over the table creating a slight curve to the background rather than a hard edge. This will help eliminate any shadows also and makes your object really look great and stand out. If you set your area up like this, you’ll never use the flash on your camera but you’ll get awesome results. When you aim your camera, make sure it is angled slightly down to your product and the top of the backdrop is not in the shot.

Take a look at the example above. You will notice here that a simple piece of flip-chart paper is taped to the wall and draped over the table. A simple ceiling lamp is positioned directly over the subject to help kill shadows behind it and in front of it and then, to illuminate the product itself, a simple desk lamp from an office supply store is positioned so it is outside the shot. This simple setup will yield outstanding results, can be designed with a very low budget, and is easy to setup.

Another route to consider is using a small photo tent which can be purchased online or at any good camera store. I’ve seen kits such as this sell for around $75 or less complete with lights and backdrops. Here, the tent itself will diffuse the light coming into it, so you want to position your lights on each side, about 8-12 inches away. When setup, you take one of your backdrops (preferably white) and it will attach to the top, back wall of the box and drape down inside (usually, these are held up with either velcro or small clips). Just remember to add a little curve to the backdrop when draping it inside to the bottom. The lights will illuminate everything inside and give you outstanding results.

Here is a shot I took just this past weekend for a client’s website (www.designsbylala.com) using a light box. 

Lastly, if your camera has a “Macro” feature, use it. The universal symbol for macro-mode is a flower/tulip looking icon (as many people use macro photography for flowers) Sometimes this can be found by turning a dial on your camera, sometimes by pushing a button, or on some Digital SLR cameras, you may have to have a specific macro lens in order to use this feature.

Macro photography involves moving your camera as close as possible to your object yet allowing to focus clearly at the short distance. If you don’t know how to find the Macro mode in your camera, consult your user manual. Just like the human eye, a camera is unable to focus properly when an object is moved too close to the lens. Using a macro mode or a macro lens forces the camera to adjust it’s focal range to an object closer to the lens and gain more clarity in the shot. As with most cameras or inexpensive lenses, the more you have to zoom into an object to photograph it, the less light the camera allows in (referred to as aperature or "f-stop". In a future blog, I’ll be explaining this in greater detail. For now though, and for simplicity sake, just understand that if you are zooming into your subject from across the room, or from two feet away, you will see different results as the available light the lens will take in will be different. 

With this basic instruction on product photography techniques, you should start creating awesome images right away and make all your listings look like the ones the big power sellers have. Pretty soon, if you stick to it, you’ll be one of those sellers too!


 

Learn From My Mistakes!

Author Rita Mae Brown once said, "Good judgment comes from experience, and often experience comes from bad judgment.  I know for a fact I that I have learned more from my mistakes than I ever have from my successes and my photography work is no exception. Having been a professional photographer for over ten years now, I’ve certainly made my fare share and I thought sharing a few of them with new, aspiring, or even experienced photographers may be of some help so you can learn from my mistakes so here are just a few…

1. Communication, Communication, Communication. If you are doing a shoot involving models, talk to them frequently before a shoot and ask tons of questions. I’ve had models show up on shoots as a brunette but were blond in their portfolio. Now, before a shoot, one of my standard questions is, "Is your hair, complexion, tan, the same as in your current photos?" I ask now about complexion because TWICE I’ve had models show up to shoots with major zits that couldn’t be covered. One time it was for a product shot where the model was in a bikini and she shows up with two MASSIVE zits on her cleavage. Ugh. One of the most common issues photographers have with models is the flake-factor and this one tip will help eliminate that dramatically…I now ask models the night before and the day before if they are going to make it, if they have transportation, if they know where to go and when to arrive. My flake rate has gone down considerably. I even email them a link to Google Maps so they have no excuse as to why they couldn’t find the meeting location. One of my next blogs will be about how to never have a model flake on you again so stay tuned for that.

2. Get everything in writing. I’ve been bitten in the ass a few times because I didn’t. Luckily nothing major but it’s a lesson learned. I get agreements and releases signed in advance before I ever pick up a camera and, as mentioned with #1, I now communicate this fact with the parties involved in advance.

3. Charge up batteries before a shoot. Never "assume" that everything is charged just because you charged everything a week ago. Back in December I was the photographer for the grand opening of the Haze Nightclub inside the new Aria resort at City Center here in Vegas. The night before the shoot, I loaded up all my batteries and, much to my surprise, several of them had gone bad from leaving them in my car the week prior. Being prepared in advance gave me a 24 hour buffer to get replacements.

4. On any scheduled shoot, hope for the best but EXPECT the worst.

5. When it comes to dealing with other parties involved in your shoot, don’t have a short fuse but do have a thick skin.

6. Never make a promise you can’t keep. I’ve made the mistake of promising models touched-up images in a time line I knew was not realistic. Honesty goes a long way…there’s no reason to bullshit people. If you think you are going to be late on your deadline, email the model and let them know. A model would much rather know his or her photos will be a few days late rather than think her photographer is a flake.

7. This is a biggie. Never put down your gear in a place unless you know it’s 100000% safe. Don’t put your new 70-200mm 2.8 lens on a rock you think is safe, take an extra step and put it in your bag you KNOW is safe. I’ve learned this lesson the hard way twice in the last ten years. My plan is to never have a third.

8. Similar to #7, never put gear down that is out of sight, even for a second…unless you want it to get stolen. When I shoot in nightclubs, I’ve had many times where I put something down, just for a second, and it wandered away because some patron, high on Extasy, saw something shiny and round on a table and swiped it. Now, I make sure I have plenty of pockets available when I’m doing a shoot regardless of where it is.

9. Make a check list in your computer of every item you will ever need on a shoot. Include batteries, lens paper, flash diffusers, LENSES, Storage cards, everything. Itemize EVERYTHING. The morning or night before your shoot, print it out and check off every single item. It may sound silly after doing this for a few years but I guarantee you’ll never wind up on a shoot and say, "DAMN…I CAN’T BELIEVE I FORGOT (fill in the blank). Other things that should be on your checklist are maintenance items such as cleaning the mirror and diopter on the camera, cleaning the front and back glass on all my lenses, dusting out lens caps, etc. I started deviating from my own advice on this for a while and it bit me in the ass bad. I had a shoot to do inside the Pure nightclub at Caesars Palace recently and luckily I got there early and realized that I left my SB-800 flash at home. After yelling numerous curse words, I had to call my wife at 10:30 at night, 30 minutes after she went to sleep, and begged her to drive my flash clear across town for me. Not cool. Because my memory sucks, I make lists.

10. Get there early! Don’t expect to arrive at a shoot on time, expect to arrive 30 minutes early. If you get there early, you look professional and will have extra setup time you don’t have to rush through. If traffic is bad, you’re still on time and don’t have to make excuses. One of my biggest mistakes of my youth was my inability to arrive on time and I KNOW it cost me respect and, more importantly, money. Now, you may be thinking, "Well, I’m only going to go shoot some flowers at a park at my own time…I’ll go whenever". Bad advice. Here’s the reason. In photography, timing is so crucially important to getting the shot you really want. Even if it’s something as simple as shooting flowers in a park, plan a time based on the best lighting and volume of visitors who might disturb you. Then, when you have a time set, show up ON TIME. If you can get into the habit of showing up on time for yourself, you’ll show up on time for other people as well. Plus, you’ll me much happier with the photographic results you get when you plan your shoot more effectively as well.

 

Photography Inside Las Vegas Casinos


I’ve gotten a lot of emails and questions lately regarding some of my blog posts about shooting in the Vegas casinos and I thought it would be a good post to answer some of them. More than any other question I get asked about is how much equipment can you bring with you and how to deal with the hotel security if you run into an issue.

The first thing to understand is that regardless of where you photograph in the United States, you actually have a lot more rights than you realize. The challenge with that is very few people, especially security guards, actually understand that. In fact, you’ll be hard pressed to find a small percentage of security personnel who actually have a basic grasp of copyright law and First Amendment rights. While I don’t want to get into a lot of detail about the legal aspects of being a photographer (those are questions better off answered by a copyright attorney), a good first place that every amateur or professional photographer should be come familiar with is the United States Copyright Office website.

This all being said, the important thing to understanding photography in public places is that you are fully covered by the First Amendment to the U.S. Constitution. This means that, quite contrary to popular belief, you can photograph as much as you like in a Las Vegas casino. For years, it was a commonly held belief that photography inside a casino was a violation of the rules and regulations of the Nevada Gaming Control Board…the governing body of gaming in the state of Nevada. While they may have rules against photographing elements of gambling in a casino in addition to any rules of the casino property itself, these rules do not override the laws of the U.S. Constitution. So what does this mean to you, as a photographer? Well, quite a bit of things actually.

The biggest challenge I’ve had doing photo shoots inside casinos is dealing with hotel security. Before I get into telling you how to deal with them, it is important to understand, again, that very few of them actually understand your rights as a photographer, and will often try to bully you into either stop shooting, erase the photos you just took, etc. While a security guard is well within their rights to ask you to stop shooting and leave the property (after all, you ARE on private property and can be issued a trespass notice if they are in a bad mood that day), they have no legal right to ask you to show them photos you’ve taken, delete the photos out of your camera, etc. That would be a violation of your First Amendment rights. An outstanding resource on this with related local articles is photo journalist Carlos Miller’s blog site. On that linked page, Carlos talks about a newsworthy incident involving a photographer shooting in a Las Vegas casino which is an excellent read for any photographer coming to Las Vegas and I suggest everyone reading this blog, read the information from that link.

Understanding that the vast majority of security guards don’t know about or don’t care about your rights as a photographer, you are much better off taking a different approach with them other than one of confrontation and aggression. While I absolutely believe that everyone should stand up for their rights, I also have to be realistic as well, and if I want a shot of a certain part of a casino, I’m much better off bathing security in kindness rather than waive a piece of paper in their face "educating" them on my rights. The first step though, is understanding what your presence is like when you enter a casino and the visual footprint you make.

Be aware that the moment you enter a casino, you are being watched by numerous cameras at every moment manned by what can be dozens of security personnel. If you think for one moment that you aren’t being watched when you walk through a casino, you’re very, very wrong. This gets to the question of how much gear can you get away with doing a shoot inside a casino. The larger the visual footprint you make, the more of a target you are going to be. Most casinos are used to tourists walking through and taking a photo or two with their tiny point-and-shoot cameras. Many years ago, even this was frowned upon but nowadays, the casinos are fine with tolerating this. Even with the rapidly growing popularity of digital SLR cameras, casinos are becoming more tolerant with these as well. When I say "tolerant" that means they will only go so far before their mood starts to change.

There is one of my hidden spots in a major casino here in Las Vegas that I love to shoot in. I’ve shot over 20 different models in this one location and I always get outstanding results. One of the things I always do before we start shooting is I inform the model that there is a high degree of probability we will be asked to leave so it is important to get the shots we want quickly, with a specific strategy in mind, and then leave as quietly as we came in. We shoot early in the morning when the casino is slow and we’re not bothering anyone. While I do shoot with a large DSLR camera, I still don’t make a big deal about it when we start shooting. I don’t carry my large backpack or camera cases in with me, I keep my movements to a minimum, and I don’t act like I’m some photographer with a big chip on my shoulder who seems to own the place. Now, in all my years of shooting in this one spot, there has only been one time I’ve been asked to leave. I just got a new flash bracket and wanted to try it out on this shoot. So I arrived with a larger than normal camera case, I had all my pro gear put together and we started shooting. Now I’ve gone from looking like an amateur photographer getting some vacation photos to a professional photographer creating a big visual footprint and it was obvious I was using their casino for my professional work and I most certainly showed up on the radar. Seconds later, I got a tap on the shoulder from a security guard asking me to leave. By that time we got the shots we wanted but it was most certainly a lesson learned.


Now, contrast this with a recent wedding shoot I did outside the Venetian Hotel & Casino. We were still on their property even though it was not inside the casino. I made the couple aware of possible security issues and they were fine with it. Well, not long after we started shooting, two security guards came rolling up on bicycles. Rather than be confrontational with them, I explained we were just taking a few photos (actually over 800 between myself and the other photographer I was working with) for their "special day". We weren’t being rude, we weren’t acting like we were owed a right to be there, no we, were open and friendly and in less than three minutes, we were having one of the security guards hold a large reflector for us.


The lesson here is that not every security guard at every casino is out to ruin your shoot. You just need to prepare for the worst and if the best case scenario happens, all the better!

So how much gear can you really get away with? Well, it all depends. If you are on the sidewalk doing a shoot at the fountains at Bellagio and you have a full tripod with a large DSLR camera and an even bigger lens, nobody is going to care. If you use the same rig and decide to photograph a professional model inside a casino lounge, you’ll start to have some eyebrows raised. It’s all about using some discretion, a bit of common sense, and a positive attitude. You DO need to remember that you are private property and while they have no legal right to ask you to delete the photos you’ve just taken of a bank of slot machines, they do have the right to ask you to leave if your photography is making them uncomfortable.